Preamp for L.R. Baggs M1 A, and the M80

[Bryan McManus]

I cannot say what could be wrong. It's important to determine whether the connections or leads from the resistor and capacitor are being pushed against contacts in a tight space in a way that would bypass the part(s) in question. When we assemble the M1C3 cable with the capacitor and resistor soldered between signal and ground, it all has to fit under the cover that threads over the signal and ground connections. It's a tight space and we had some failures until we got the method down pat for properly trimming the leads and how to bend them so the parts can be soldered in with minimal risk of being shorted when the cover is threaded on.

Sound-wise, you should be able to hear the difference. Without the components, the M1's sound should be much brighter. The capacitor, specifically, should warm up the tone by imposing the capacitance of a longer lead between the passive magnetic pickup and the preamp input. The resistor's effect on the signal is harder to quantify but it does reduce the input impedance of the channel to a level more compatible with the pickup.

I would not expect a 9MegOhm resistor to have a negative effect vs. a 10MegOhm resistor. Both are still considerably higher than the impedance of the pickup itself.

[steve]

after playing some gigs i changed today the own build cable with resistor and capacitor to one without the resistor and capacitor.
I heard nodifference.

What did I do wrong ?

I couldn`t find a 10 M Ohm Resistor so i took an 9,1 M and a 900 k in line, and then the capacicator prallel to them.

The complete thing beetwenn tip and shield.

Greatings

[Caleb_Elling]

Yes, in parallel. Sorry, I didn't specify.

[steve]

Thanxs a lot.

just one more question. The resistor and a capacitor should be connected parallel, not in line ?

[Caleb_Elling]

Solder your 1/8" and 2.5mm jacks onto the ends of your cable. Be sure that the components will fit inside the shield before you solder them in. If the parts will not fit, you may need to use heat shrink instead of the cable shield to cover the components. On the 2.5mm side, before screwing on the shield, solder the 390pf capacitor and the 10M resistor between the signal contact of the cable tip (signal) and the ground contact. Then test the cable to insure that it is working. If all is well, screw on the shield (or heat your heatshrink) and you're good to go.

[steve]

Thanxs for information.

I will try to make my own conector with the 10M resistor and a 390pf Capacitor, because I will need it very quick.
Could you pleasse tell me how ?

[Caleb_Elling]

It is possible to use the M1 Passive, or the M80 in Passive mode with the Stage Pro Element preamp. It does require a special connector though. The cable/connector is a 1/8" to a 2.5mm with a 10M resistor and a 390pf Capacitor to match the Element's impedance. You can buy one directly from us as an accessory.

[steve]

I like the sound of the L.R. Baggs M1 A, and the M80.
But I need a built in guitar preamp with tuner.

Is it possible to use the L.R.Baggs Stagepro Element
with the M1 oder the M80.

I tried to use a headway preamp and hat problemes, like distortion
because the M1 and the M80 have to much power for the preamp.
I switched the M80 into passive mode but it was still to much for the headway preamp.

Then i `ve turned the volume on the pickup down and it works.

So, what do you think about M1 active, M1 passiv and M80 in Kombination with the L.R. Baggs Stagepro Element ?


Greatings

Steve